What Basic Stall Fittings are Necessary?

A stall door must be at least 4 feet wide so that there is plenty of room for the horse, with its tack, to go through. The proper measurements are essential, because it is common for a horse to damage the point of one hip by knocking it on a narrow doorway. Ideally, the door should be at least 8 feet high to allow plenty of head room. It should open outward and be divided in half so that the top half can be fastened open for ventilation; the bottom half should be high enough to prevent a horse from getting over it, but low enough to be able to put its head over and look out. If it is necessary, metal bars can be installed to prevent the horse from putting its head out; fitting bars with a central area only large enough for the horse’s head prevents a horse from weaving. A roof overhang or awning is important to stop the rain from blowing in. Doors must be fitted with proper stall catches at the top; a second bolt or "kick hatch" at the bottom is out of the reach of potential escape artists.

The windows should face south for warmth. They should also be situated on the same wall as the door, and above head level to prevent drafts. For the same reason, they should be hinged at the bottom and open inward. They must always have a wire screen or bars fitted inside to prevent injury. Electrical sockets should also have protective metal coverings; light bulbs should also be equipped with metal cages to prevent hay or bedding from coming into contact with the bulb. All cables must be out of reach of the horse and should be waterproof.

Additional stall fittings may be necessary, but are mostly a matter of personal choice. The fewer fittings there are, the easier it is to clean thoroughly, and maintain the stall. Cross ties or, at the very least, well-secured tie rings attached to the all at a height of approximately 5 feet are always useful. For safety, a string should be attached to the ring and the halter so if the horse gets startled or frightened and pulls away, the string will break rather than breaking the halter or causing injury to the horse. The tie ring can also be used for the haynet, which should be hung at the horse’s eyelevel, although it can also be fed on the ground. Mounted wall racks should be at eyelevel; any higher, there is the risk of seeds falling into the horse’s eyes. Removable feeding bowls work well and allow the horse to eat at a natural angle. Automatic water drinkers save time and work but give no idea of how much a horse is drinking; free-standing rubber buckets can also be used. No matter what means of feeding you decide on, regular inspection of all fixtures, fittings, and bucket handles is essential to make sure there are no sharp edges or protrusions.

Ventilation is an extremely important aspect of maintaining an area that is safe and comfortable for the horse. A good, constant supply of clean, fresh air is vital to your horse’s health; airflow rids the stall of the ammonia smell from urine and feces and also keeps down the amount of allergy-causing fungal spores in the dust from hay or straw. The quality of ventilation can often be gauged simply by the smell of the stall. As a rule, it is better to supply plenty of fresh air and to keep the horse warms with rugs or blankets. However, ventilation must be controlled and directed because horse’s can catch pneumonia if left in a drafty stall after exercise. A large part of the ventilation requirement can be achieved by keeping the top half of the stall door open, weather permitting that is. Technical information on the sizing and positioning of air vents is available from equestrian associations.

In addition to individual stables, barns or buildings with many box stalls are often used for stabling. These box stalls generally each have a sliding door that opens into a central passage. In this type of situation, the ventilation is often inadequate and respiratory diseases tend to spread easily.