General Construction of a Stall
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If you plan on keeping your horse in a stall, there are a few things you should consider in order to help keep your horse comfortable and safe.
General Construction of a Stall
- Stall size
- Stall walls
- Grilles
- Doors
- Types of Doors
- Latches
- Flooring
- General Accessories
1. Stall Size
The longer a horse is kept in a stall, the larger the stall should be. A stall should be large enough to allow the horse to move freely, lie down and get up without the possibility of banging into the walls. A general guideline for stall size is:
Size of Horse |
Size of Stall |
Under 14.2 hands | 10 ft x 10 ft stall |
Up to 16 hands | 12 ft x 12 ft stall |
More than 16 hands | 12 ft x 14 ft stall |
More than 16 hands & over 1400 lbs. | 12 ft x 16 ft stall |
Foaling Size | 12 ft x 18 ft stall |
2. Stall Walls
When a horse is playful, bored, irritated, uncomfortable or possibly under exercised, it can end up kicking at the stall walls. A horse’s kick can easily break or knock boards down. Even worse, their kick can go through a board and potentially cause injury. The walls of the stall should be at least four feet high and made from material strong enough to withstand the kick. Some commonly used materials are 1 ½ -inch-thick tongue and groove, full thickness (two inches) rough sawn lumber, or ¾-inch plywood topped with sheet metal. Additionally, 5/8-inch thick rubber mats make an excellent lining for the stall. They can cushion the blow of a kick and help protect your horse’s feet and legs, and the wall as well.
3. Grilles
Metal bars, also known as grilles, can be used on the upper portion of the stall walls to allow maximum containment of the horse with minimal interference with ventilation. The bars should be spaced so that a horse cannot get a hoof through if the horse should rear up in the stall. They can be used throughout the whole stall, but it may be better to have a solid partition between stalls to prevent them from seeing and smelling one another.
4. Doors
When it comes to stall doors, the choice is yours. One thing to keep in mind is that the stall door should be at least four feet wide or wider. This will allow enough room to lead your horse through without rubbing, banging, or possibly getting tack caught on the way in. To help prevent scrapes when your horse enters the stall, you can round off the edges of the stall with a farrier’s rasp, a wood plane or an electric sander.
5. Types of Doors
Door Roller and Stop
Sliding doors take up very little room to open and close and are convenient to operate.
Drop Down Window
Since horses are social animals, many will be less bored and more content if they can see what is going on around them outside of their stall. Having a drop down window in the stall door gives your horse access to the aisle, and it also doesn’t have to be fastened open. One concern with allowing your horse to stick his head out of the stall is that it will be able to kick and bang the stall with its knees potentially causing injury. It might also develop bad habits like lunging at or biting anyone who passes by.
Stall Guards
Stall guards such as a rope, chain or a strap door guard, give a horse added ventilation and more freedom than a drop down window. They are great to use for hot days to allow a breeze to go into the stall, or for a horse that is on stall rest as it may help make it feel less confined. However, like the drop down window, they have more of a chance of reaching passerbys with a stall guard.
6. LatchesHorses are incredibly skillful with their lips and can sometimes enjoy the test of opening latches. Installing a horse-proof latch almost ensures that your horse will not be able to get out, but adding a snap to the latch guarantees it. You may also consider adding a lower latch at the bottom of the stall door. This will help prevent the horse from pushing the door outwards and getting a leg caught between the door and the jamb. It also helps reduce the stress on the hinges from a horse kicking, pawing, or rubbing on the door.
Material | Average Cost per Square Foot |
Benefits | Drawbacks |
Soil (clay, dirt) | $0.08 | Low-cost; good footing and padding | Hard to clean; can be dug up |
Gravel, sand | $0.08 | Low-cost; good footing and padding | Hard to clean; can be dug up; possibility of colic |
Concrete | $3.00 | Easy to clean; low maintenance | Cold, non-cushioning and rough; uncomfortable on legs and feet; slick if not textured |
Wood | $1.50 | Romantic sound; insulating | Hard to clean and disinfect; Slippery when wet |
Draining flooring | $2.50 - $3.50 | Reduces bedding; moisture drains through instead of pooling | Urine accumulates under flooring, continuous urine smell |
Rubber mats | $1.60 - $2.40 | Easy to clean; reduces bedding; provides ample cushioning and traction |
Installing may be difficult; if not installed properly the mats can gap and buckle
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If you decide to put rubber mats in, you will need to put in a base for the stall mats to perform properly. They should be put down over a firm, level gravel base. You should not use a sand base underneath the mats due to the sand not compacting evenly, which can cause the mats to shift a pull up. Concrete or asphalt will work as well. Your base needs to slope to a drain to help minimize the moisture beneath the mats.
- Water bucket or automatic water
- Feed bucket
- Hayrack
- Toys – examples - Jolly Ball or Pas-a-fier
- Salt lick
- Tack hooks
- Blanket rack
- Stall plate
- Saddle rack